The vessel, departing from PCH at 8:28 AM on June 23rd, embarked on a significant leg of its journey, traversing the intricate waterway system of the Mississippi River. The initial five-hour segment covered 62 miles, successfully navigating two locks before reaching Hoppies Marina at mile marker 158.5. During this stretch, the boat consumed approximately 61.5 gallons of fuel, indicating a fuel burn rate of roughly one gallon per mile. This initial phase of the day was marked by efficiency and a smooth operation, with the only notable incident being the accidental dropping of a fender into a lock during departure.
Transitioning to the Commercial Artery of the Mississippi
As the journey progressed towards St. Louis, Captain Paul provided invaluable instruction on river navigation, a critical skill for operating on this bustling commercial waterway. His tutelage encompassed maneuvering around immense towboats, comprised of multiple barges lashed together, often reaching widths of 110 feet and lengths of 600 feet, propelled by powerful commercial tugs. He also detailed the protocols for hailing these commercial vessels when communication is necessary.
The initial approach to the first lock at Alton, Illinois, was characterized by favorable conditions. The vessel was able to maintain a brisk speed of 16-17 knots, with minimal river traffic, allowing for a seamless entry into the lock. The narrator took the helm, guided by Captain Paul, while other crew members, Amy and Lucy, prepared the fenders and mooring lines. The process involved securing the vessel to a floating bollard and then to the boat’s cleat, a crucial step as the lock’s water level adjusted, resulting in a descent of approximately 8-9 feet. Despite a bit of wind upon approach, the interior of the lock provided a protected environment. However, the turbulence generated by the water displacement within the lock caused the boat to rock, requiring the helmsman to maintain precise control with the engines and bow thrusters to keep the vessel stable against the lock wall. Upon exiting the lock, a fender was inadvertently dropped, marking the day’s sole mishap.
The Chain of Rocks Canal and Lock: A Test of Crew Proficiency
Following the Alton lock, the vessel entered the Chain of Rocks Canal, a nine-mile engineered channel designed to bypass the historical rapids located just north of St. Louis. This canal offers a controlled passage, particularly advantageous for larger vessels or during periods of higher water levels. At the canal’s terminus, the crew successfully navigated the Chain of Rocks Lock. This time, with Captain Paul supervising from a distance, the crew executed the locking procedure autonomously. Amy managed the bollard, Lucy assisted with line handling, and the narrator piloted the vessel. The operation was described as flawless, earning commendation from Captain Paul, who expressed confidence in the crew’s ability to manage future lockages independently. This milestone underscored the crew’s growing proficiency and self-reliance.
Navigating the Working River: St. Louis and its Commercial Hub
The approach to downtown St. Louis presented a stark contrast, revealing the river’s identity as a vital commercial corridor. The waterway teemed with activity: barges were moored along terminals, tows traversed the river, and others were actively assembling, lashing barges together in configurations of three wide by seven long. The sheer volume of marine traffic necessitated a reduced speed, averaging around 8 mph for a significant portion of the journey, increasing to 9-10 mph for the remainder of the transit to Hoppies Marina. This section of the river is a critical artery for the nation’s economy, facilitating the movement of a diverse array of commodities, including scrap metal, coal, fertilizer, fuel, and wind turbine components. The sight of barges moving both upstream and downstream highlighted the constant flow of goods essential to various industries. The navigation through this segment also involved contending with turbulence generated by river confluences and wing dams, engineered structures designed to manage water flow and maintain channel depth.
Strategic Planning and the Road Ahead
Upon arrival at Hoppies Marina at 2:00 PM, the vessel was the sole occupant. Captain Paul remained for an hour, sharing a farewell toast before departing. His departure marked a significant shift for the crew, who were now fully responsible for their onward journey. A crucial debriefing session with Deb, Hoppies’ daughter, provided vital information regarding downstream conditions. The intelligence gathered was sobering: many potential anchorages were deemed too shallow to be safe for overnight stays. Consequently, a revised plan was formulated. The recommendation was for a shorter travel day the following day, targeting the Kaskaskia lock wall, a mere 42 miles south, approximately a three-hour transit. This would allow for a more robust push the subsequent day, aiming for Paducah, a ten-hour journey at higher speeds, involving passage through a single lock. This strategic adjustment prioritized safety and efficient progress, acknowledging the challenges of navigating less-charted waters.
Day Two: Kaskaskia Lock Wall – Gaining Confidence
June 23, 2023: Hoppies to Kaskaskia Lock Wall
The morning of June 23rd began with a leisurely pace, allowing the crew to savor their time at Hoppies. A visit into town included stops at several charming shops and a meal at the renowned Blue Owl restaurant. The vessel departed at 12:08 PM, completing a clean departure. Traffic remained minimal on this section of the river, though the crew encountered active terminal areas with associated towboat operations. Throughout the day, cruising was managed in one-hour shifts, with crew members rotating between driving, navigating, and resting. The approach to the Kaskaskia lock wall at approximately 3:15 PM was executed with precision, resulting in a perfect landing. The vessel once again found itself as the sole occupant, a recurring theme as pleasure boat traffic appeared to be scarce, with only a handful of fishing boats observed throughout the journey thus far. The day concluded with a debriefing, planning for the next day’s route, and an early bedtime, a necessary preparation for the demanding schedule ahead. The absence of Captain Paul was palpable, yet the crew’s successful navigation and problem-solving instilled a growing sense of confidence and self-reliance.
Day Three: The Long Haul to Paducah – A Test of Endurance and Resilience
June 24, 2023: Kaskaskia to Paducah
June 24th represented a significant undertaking, with a planned 160-mile journey from the Kaskaskia lock to the Paducah City Docks. This route involved 117 miles down the Upper Mississippi River, followed by a left turn onto the Ohio River, where the vessel would proceed upstream for approximately 46 miles, navigating through a single lock. The vessel’s systems were prepped the previous evening, and an early start was paramount. The engines were initiated at 5:00 AM, serving as a wake-up call for the crew, and the vessel was underway by 5:25 AM. The initial leg involved pushing against a gentle current of 2-3 mph. Navigation and driving duties were again performed in one-hour shifts, ensuring consistent focus and adequate rest. The river remained remarkably quiet, with minimal traffic, allowing the vessel to average 17-18 mph on the Upper Mississippi.
The crucial turn onto the Ohio River occurred at 11:05 AM, at mile marker 981, marking the confluence with the Mississippi. Upon entering the Ohio, the crew began contending with an upstream current of 2-3 mph, with the "reds" (navigation buoys) to starboard. At 12:10 PM, the vessel reached the Olmstead Lock, where a waiting period of approximately 40 minutes was necessary as commercial tows transited the lock. Lockage commenced at 12:50 PM, and the vessel exited the lock at 1:15 PM.
Post-lockage, a critical navigational challenge emerged. The loaded electronic charts on the plotter displayed river data and AIS targets but lacked visible navigation aids such as buoys or the designated sailing line, which indicates the center of the channel. Compounding this issue, the backup charts on a secondary tablet were inaccessible due to the tablet being discharged and failing to charge. This situation necessitated the use of a mobile phone as a third layer of redundancy for navigation, guiding the vessel all the way to Paducah.
Adding to the day’s challenges, the steering system began to exhibit stiffness and a grabby sensation sometime after exiting the Olmstead Lock. Despite these evolving issues, the vessel arrived at the Paducah Municipal docks at 4:00 PM. The total underway time for the day was 10.5 hours, covering 163 miles (121.55 nautical miles) at an average speed of 12.6 mph. Upon arrival, the starboard engine indicated a fuel level below a quarter tank. The docking procedure was executed flawlessly without external assistance. After securing the vessel for the night, the crew enjoyed a well-deserved cocktail and a brief exploration of the surrounding area. Exhausted but exhilarated, they retired by 8:30 PM.
Paducah: A Day of Rest, Rejuvenation, and Resourcefulness
June 25, 2023: Paducah Rest Day
The following day, June 25th, was designated as a rest day in Paducah, a welcome respite after the demanding transit. The morning was spent in a leisurely fashion, a stark contrast to the previous day’s intensity. However, the vessel’s exterior was found to be heavily coated in dead mayflies, a common occurrence during a significant hatch. The dock attendant arrived around 8:00 AM to refuel the boat. This required a short repositioning maneuver to the fuel dock and back. A substantial 341 gallons of fuel were taken on board: 144 gallons for the port engine and 197 for the starboard engine, which also supplies the generator. The fuel cost $5.25 per gallon, totaling $1,790.26. Dockage fees for the two nights amounted to $72.88 per night.
Following initial boat cleaning, the crew ventured into the quaint downtown area of Paducah. Many establishments were still closed for the morning, but as the day progressed, shops began to open, and the crew enjoyed lunch. A personal connection was re-established when the narrator’s cousin, Skipper, and his wife, Jennie, visited the boat, adding a pleasant social dimension to the day.
Back on board, while Amy and Lucy rested, the narrator addressed several important boat maintenance tasks. The issue with the missing chart data was resolved, the tablet was reactivated, and navigational aids for the upcoming leg of the journey were confirmed. Attention then turned to the steering system. Researching the fluid filling and bleeding procedures, the narrator, with assistance from Amy and Lucy, added fluid, bled out the air, and conducted a thorough inspection for leaks, finding none. The day was exceptionally hot, and the starboard side of the boat, facing west, caused a fuel vent to leak a small amount of fuel due to overfilling. The visit from relatives extended into the evening, delaying dinner.
Day Four: The Final Approach to Green Turtle Bay – Anticipating a Smoother Passage
June 26, 2023: Paducah to Green Turtle Bay
The final planned segment of this particular report, on June 26th, involved a relatively short 46-mile transit to Green Turtle Bay, requiring passage through a single lock. This promised to be a considerably less demanding day compared to the previous long haul. Before departing, the crew attended to a few remaining boat chores, with the expectation of a smooth and uneventful cruise. This segment represents the culmination of a challenging yet rewarding period of navigation, where the crew honed their skills and overcame unexpected obstacles. The journey through the Mississippi and Ohio Rivers underscores the vital role of these waterways in national commerce and the personal satisfaction derived from successfully navigating their complexities.
