The journey along America’s vital inland waterways is a testament to both human endeavor and the intricate ballet of commercial and recreational marine traffic. This account chronicles a recent passage, highlighting the skills, challenges, and strategic planning required to navigate segments of the Mississippi and Ohio Rivers. From the initial departure on the Mississippi River’s PCH (presumably a dock or marina designation) to the eventual arrival at Green Turtle Bay, the voyage encompassed significant mileage, complex lock operations, and the ever-present demands of managing a vessel in a working port environment. The experience underscores the critical role these arteries play in the nation’s economy and the dedication of those who traverse them.

Early Departures and Lock Operations on the Mississippi

The expedition commenced on June 23rd from a point designated as PCH, departing at 8:28 AM. The initial leg involved navigating through two locks before proceeding towards Hoppies Marina. Covering 62 miles in approximately five hours, the vessel arrived at Hoppies Marina, located at mile marker 158.5, by 2:00 PM. During this segment, the boat consumed 61.5 gallons of fuel, indicating a fuel burn rate of approximately one gallon per mile, a crucial data point for operational planning.

The initial phase of the day was marked by a sense of smooth progression, with only one minor incident: the loss of a round fender into a lock during departure. As the crew set their sights on St. Louis, Captain Paul provided invaluable instruction on river navigation. This included strategies for maneuvering around tows – massive, multi-barge configurations pushed by powerful tugs, often spanning over 110 feet in width and 600 feet in length – and the protocols for communicating with these commercial giants.

The approach to the first lock, the Alton Lock in Illinois, was swift. The vessel achieved speeds of 16-17 knots, a testament to favorable river conditions and minimal traffic. Upon arrival, the lock was open and ready, allowing for immediate entry. The author took the helm, guided by Captain Paul, while other crew members, Amy and Lucy, managed the fendering and mooring lines. The process of locking down, which involved a descent of approximately 8-9 feet, required precise control within the lock chamber. Despite some initial wind on the approach, the lock provided a sheltered environment. However, turbulence within the lock necessitated constant adjustments from the helm, utilizing both engine power and bow thrusters to maintain position against the lock wall. The departure was executed flawlessly, though a fender was inadvertently dropped back into the lock as the vessel exited.

Navigating the Chain of Rocks Canal and Lock

Following the Alton Lock, the course led to the Chain of Rocks Canal entrance. This nine-mile canal offers an alternative route to bypassing the rapids historically located north of St. Louis. At the canal’s terminus, the vessel transited the Chain of Rocks Lock. This operation was conducted with the primary crew managing the boat under Captain Paul’s supervision. Amy was responsible for managing the bollard, Lucy for mediation and communication, and the author for piloting the vessel. The successful execution of this lockage was a significant achievement, with Captain Paul affirming the crew’s capability to handle such maneuvers independently.

The St. Louis Commercial Corridor and Hoppies Marina

The stretch approaching downtown St. Louis and the iconic Gateway Arch presented a stark contrast to the earlier, more open stretches of the river. The area is a vibrant hub of commercial activity, characterized by numerous barges moored at terminals and tows actively engaged in shifting and assembling barge formations. The density of marine traffic demanded a significantly reduced speed, averaging around 8 mph for extended periods, increasing only slightly to 9-10 mph as the vessel progressed towards Hoppies. This section of the river is a critical artery for the nation’s economy, serving as a major commercial port. Observations of barges transporting a diverse range of commodities, including scrap metal, coal, fertilizer, fuel, and components for wind turbines, highlighted the river’s indispensable role in the supply chain. The anticipation of future crop hauls further emphasized its ongoing economic significance.

Upon arrival at Hoppies Marina at 2:00 PM, the vessel was the sole occupant. Captain Paul remained for an hour, sharing a toast before his departure. His regret at not being able to accompany the crew for the entire journey to Green Turtle Bay was evident, though he expressed confidence in their abilities. A crucial downriver debriefing was conducted later that evening with Deb, Hoppies’ daughter. The information received was sobering, indicating that most available anchorages were too shallow for safe overnight stays. This led to a revised plan for the following day: a shorter transit to the Kaskaskia lock wall, a mere 42 miles south, followed by a more strenuous push to Paducah the subsequent day.

A Short Transit and Growing Confidence

June 23rd: Hoppies to Kaskaskia Lock Wall

With the understanding of a reduced mileage target for the day, the crew opted to enjoy a leisurely morning at Hoppies. A walk into the nearby town led to visits to several shops, culminating in a meal at the renowned Blue Owl restaurant. Returning to the vessel by 11:30 AM, they were underway by 12:08 PM, executing a clean departure. Traffic on this stretch of the river was minimal, with only a few active terminal areas and the passing of a limited number of heavy tows. The crew adopted a system of one-hour shifts for piloting and navigation, with one individual free to rest or assist. The arrival at the Kaskaskia lock wall was at approximately 3:15 PM, marked by a perfect landing. The vessel was again the only one present, continuing a trend of encountering very few recreational craft throughout the journey, with only a handful of fishing boats observed. The day concluded with a debriefing, planning for the next day’s route, and an early bedtime, a strategic move in preparation for the demanding transit ahead. The absence of Captain Paul on board marked a significant milestone, forcing the crew to rely entirely on their own skills and collective decision-making. This independence, initially daunting, fostered a growing sense of confidence and control.

The Long Haul to Paducah: Navigating Confluences and Challenges

June 24th: Kaskaskia to Paducah

The itinerary for June 24th was ambitious: a 160-mile journey from Kaskaskia to the Paducah City Docks. This involved traversing 117 miles down the Upper Mississippi River before making a left turn onto the Ohio River, where they would then travel approximately 46 miles upstream against a current, navigating through one lock. The boat was prepped the previous evening, and the crew retired early to ensure adequate rest. The author was up at 4:15 AM, with engine start scheduled for 5:00 AM as a "crew wake-up call."

Underway by 5:25 AM, the vessel began pushing against a 2-3 mph current on the Mississippi. The crew maintained a rotation of one-hour shifts for navigation, piloting, and rest. Time passed quickly, aided by the minimal river traffic and an average speed of 17-18 mph on the Upper Mississippi. The critical turn onto the Ohio River occurred at 11:05 AM, at mile marker 981 of the Ohio, marking the confluence with the Mississippi. Now heading upstream against a similar 2-3 mph current, with navigational markers to the right, the crew approached the Olmstead Lock. Arrival at 12:10 PM necessitated a 40-minute wait as tows transited the lock. By 12:50 PM, the vessel was secured within the lock, and by 1:15 PM, they were underway again, exiting the lock.

A significant navigational challenge arose post-lockage. The loaded electronic charts on the plotter, which typically display buoys and the "sailing line" (center of the channel), ceased to provide this data. The backup charts on a tablet became inaccessible due to a dead battery. This forced the crew to rely on their mobile phones for navigation for the remainder of the journey to Paducah, highlighting the importance of redundancy in marine navigation systems.

Further complicating the transit, the steering system began to exhibit stiffness and a "grabby" feel sometime after exiting the lock. Despite these challenges, the vessel arrived at the Paducah Municipal Docks at 4:00 PM. The 10.5-hour transit covered 163 miles (121.55 nautical miles), with an average speed of 12.6 mph. Fuel levels were critically low, with less than a quarter tank remaining on the starboard engine. The docking maneuver was executed flawlessly without assistance. Following docking, the crew enjoyed a cocktail and a brief walk, retiring by 8:30 PM, exhausted but exhilarated by the day’s accomplishments.

Paducah: A Respite Amidst Nature’s Abundance and Mechanical Checks

June 25th: Paducah Rest Day

The day following the arduous transit was designated as a rest day in Paducah, offering a welcome opportunity for recuperation. The morning was leisurely, a stark contrast to the demanding pace of the previous day. However, nature presented an unusual challenge: the boat was completely covered in dead mayflies, a consequence of arriving during a significant insect hatch. The sheer volume of carcasses was described as "disgusting."

At approximately 8:00 AM, the dock attendant facilitated fueling. The vessel was moved a short distance to the fuel dock and back. A substantial 341 gallons were taken on board: 144 gallons for the port engine and 197 gallons for the starboard engine, which also supplies the generator. The fuel cost was $5.25 per gallon, totaling $1,790.26. Dockage fees amounted to $72.88 per night.

Following initial boat cleaning efforts, the crew ventured into the quaint town of Paducah. Many establishments were still closed on a Sunday morning, but gradually opened, allowing for lunch. A significant personal connection was made when the author’s cousin, Skipper, and his wife, Jennie, visited the boat, providing a welcome social interlude.

Back on board, the author undertook crucial maintenance tasks while Amy and Lucy rested. These included diagnosing the electronic chart data issue, restoring the tablet’s functionality, and verifying all navigation aids for the upcoming leg of the journey. Research and work on the steering system’s fluid filling and bleeding process were also undertaken, with assistance from Amy and Lucy. Despite adding fluid and bleeding the system, no leaks were detected. The extreme heat of the day, with the starboard side exposed to the west, caused an overfilled fuel vent to leak some fuel. Cousin Skipper stayed until after 7:00 PM, leading to a later dinner.

The Final Approach to Green Turtle Bay

June 26th: Paducah to Green Turtle Bay

The final planned segment of this particular journey involved a relatively short transit of 46 miles, encompassing one lock, to Green Turtle Bay. This was anticipated as a less demanding passage compared to the preceding days. The crew planned to attend to a few remaining boat chores before departing, with the hope of a smooth and uneventful cruise. This leg represented the culmination of a significant phase of their inland waterway exploration, showcasing their adaptability and growing expertise in managing a vessel through diverse and challenging riverine environments. The successful navigation of the Mississippi and Ohio Rivers, with their inherent complexities of traffic, lock operations, and potential mechanical issues, served as a powerful testament to their preparedness and resilience. The journey also highlighted the vital role of these waterways in connecting communities and facilitating commerce across the American heartland.